You need to plan this trip as soon as the tour route comes out in May.  Hotels anywhere in the vicinity of the stage start or finish get booked up immediately.  Before the official announcement, there’s likely to be lots of speculation online.  The route is relatively easy to estimate based on the stage profiles and other announcements, but there are no guarantees until it’s official.

When the route’s been announced, you’ll want to pick your perfect spot.  One of the most coveted spots is at the top of a mountain.  Why?  Because these guys fly by so quickly, and at least at the top of a mountain they are a tiny bit slower.  (Although they still look like they’re going at almost superhuman speeds, if you ask me).  Plus, the riders can usually be seen as they weave their way up the mountain from certain vantage points.  It’s also where crowds tend to gather, so it can be a ton of fun.

There are basically three options if you want to watch a mountain stage of the Tour de France without using a tour company.

1. Camping – either in a camper or a car.  Depending on which stage you choose, many of the mountain roads are tiny with steep drop-offs and tons of campers lining the road.  So if you go the camper route make sure you’re comfortable with maneuvering large vehicles in tight spaces.  This is the only way to watch from the top of a mountain without a lot of hiking or biking on the day.  We also camped in our car for one stage.
2. Staying in a hotel or rental house further down the mountain.  On the day, drive the side roads to get as high up as possible, then watch from mid-mountain.  
3. Biking up the mountain yourself.  Stay at a hotel or rental house nearby and bike up the mountain early in the morning before the tour comes through.  The roads aren’t closed to cyclists and pedestrians until just before the caravan comes through.

We’ve tried both options 1 and 2, and the first was by far my favorite.  The atmosphere was amazing, with cookouts, fireworks, and a melting pot of nationalities coming together.  Be prepared for a little language barrier if you don’t speak French – you are in Le Middle of Nowhere.  But with some basics and miming should get you by just fine.

The second option worked out much better when we watched with our two-year-old son.  Car camping just wasn’t possible, and renting a campervan didn’t work with our schedule.  The hotel route requires a bit more research.  Many of the hotels near the start or finish lines get snapped up immediately, and little rural places often aren’t listed online.  Don’t be discouraged though – something will be available.

Google Maps is AMAZING for figuring it all out.  Start by picking your ideal viewing point, and then follow the road down.  Make sure you trace the side roads – the tour route will be closed off early on race day, but side roads should be open so they’ll be your best option.  I often “walk” the route on street view, looking for any possible fields or parking areas if I’m planning on camping. If I’m staying in a hotel I do the same thing, but look along the sides of the road checking for hotels I didn’t see on booking sites.  Airbnb and VRBO are also great resources for finding local places to stay.

At dawn on the day of the race, the route will be buzzing.  A crew of stagers will be setting up all the route signs and banners, cyclists will be making the climb, and people will be out taking it all in, chatting, and finding the perfect spot watch the race. 

Near the peaks of the mountains and at major points along the route, you’ll usually find a several food stalls and vendors selling delicious favorite local French dishes and of course baguettes and wine!  It has a tailgate feel, but with people from dozens of countries all enjoying the day together.

About three hours before the riders come through, the route will be shut off to cyclists.  Most people have staked out their spotby now.  There’s a lot of milling about asking others if they’ve heard what’s happening on the radio, or crowding around campers’ small TVs on card tables or perched in windows.

One hour to go, and the party gets started.  The caravan – a parade of wildly decorated vehicles with blasting music – begins zipping its way up the mountain.  Get set to catch: they toss out everything from t-shirts to condoms.  If you notice everyone in the crowds on TV wearing the same polka dot t-shirts or hats, it’s because they got them from the caravan.  Water, snacks, free Tour de France gear, and a party vibe to boot; I LOVE the caravan!  The official cars follow the caravan, and that signals that the riders are on their way.

Then the waiting begins.  After that first burst of activity, the mountain almost becomes silent with hanging anticipation.  Everyone is glued to the side of the mountain hoping for a first glimpse at the riders.  Then the swarm of helicopters, providing all the aerial footage, begins to rise up the mountain – and you know that it’s time.

Everyone heads to their spots along the road.  Riders zip past in a matter of minutes, with motorcycles carrying cameramen flying around them attempting to get the perfect shots.  The chaotic scene is worth all the wait – crowds screaming and spectators chasing the riders, literally inches from their bikes.

And just like that, it’s over.  Everyone begins to pack up and the fight to get down the mountain begins.  It’s best to take your time and wait it out – have another baguette and glass of wine, and enjoy sitting atop a mountain in the French countryside.

If seeing the race unfold is your priority, the only real way to do that is on television.  For a buzzy atmosphere while you watch, join the huge crowds at one of the jumbo screens near the start/finish.  What you get on the mountain is an up-close-and-personal look at the riders in action.  Watching how the whole process unfolds with a backdrop is worth a trip on its own.