The most important part of spending 24 hours in Mostar is that it’s more than just a day trip.  Yes, the Old Town is a small place and you can easily knock off the highlights in only an hour or two.  That’s fine if you’re squeezed for time, but you will be doing it in a herd of other tourists.  To experience the real beauty of the place, make sure you stay over at least one night.

When traveling to Mostar, chances are that you’ll be arrive around midday, so get checked in and hit the ground running.  We stayed at this amazing apartment on Airbnb, right on the edge of the Old Town and with a balcony overlooking the mosque.

As soon as you arrive in Mostar, you’ll probably be itching to get to the Old Town and catch your first glimpse of the iconic bridge Stari Most.  Watch your step on the patterned cobblestone roads of the Old Town and the slippery walkway across Stari Most.  They can be a bit of a trip hazard for klutzes (not good if you’re carrying a baby).

Just under the bridge, there are little riverside terraces which are a popular place to take pictures, picnic, and let the kids run around.  You may even spot someone making the 79-foot jump from the top of the bridge.  Just be careful around the water, because that river’s got quite a strong current.

This is my #1 “must-do” in Mostar.  Just 12km (6€) gets you entrance to both the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque and the minaret.  The views are THE BEST IN THE CITY.  Somehow, even when the Old Town was bursting with tourists, I was able to spend over 10 minutes at the top of the minaret enjoying peaceful solitude.  However, it’s a bit of a climb up the steep, claustrophobia-inducing spiral concrete stairs, so I wouldn’t recommend taking young children up.  Hopefully you’re traveling with another person, and can take turns to catch the amazing (I mean really AMAZING) views.  If you’re not physically able, or don’t have someone to watch the kids, the view from the terrace next to the mosque is a pretty great alternative.

This one will also depend on your children’s ages.  There are some wonderful museums that I wish we could have checked out.  But, alas, our little ones were just not up for it.  That’s OK though, because the city itself is somewhat like an open-air museum.  Almost anywhere you look, you’ll find a building riddled with bullet holes, a ‘remember 93’ sign, or some other form of war memorials or memorabilia.  It’s a very present reminder of what happened here on the frontlines of the war.  Meeting locals and hearing their stories of this not-so-distant past feels almost shocking.  Although I knew the history, it wasn’t until I was in this regular little town, meeting its regular people for myself, that it really hit me how wars are fought in real people’s homes and neighborhoods.  Being there, it’s easy to put yourself in their shoes, and see how helpless that would make you feel.  OK, perhaps some people might think that’s a bit heavy for a vacation… but really, it’s so eye-opening.

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along the river just next to the bridge.  Make sure you order the cevapi!  It’s THE local dish: delicious little hand-formed spiced sausages served with flatbread and raw onion.  We opted for the one that comes with a side of Bosnian cream cheese, which was a fantastic call.  The restaurant was pretty quiet, so we danced around while we waited on our food, and watched all of the lights come on as the sun went down.  What a truly perfect evening.

In this East-meets-West city, which reminds me of a small Istanbul, the call to prayer can be heard being broadcast from the minaret of the local mosque.  If you’ve never heard the call to prayer before, you’re in for a treat.  Even for us non-Muslims, I think it’s a bit of a reminder to reflect on the day and be grateful, while enjoying the peaceful beauty of the place you are so lucky to be traveling in.    

The day trippers begin to descend on the city a little after 8am.  So make sure you’re up early: that way you’ll get to walk the streets and see the bridge with hardly another tourist in sight, plus you’ll enjoy the bustle of shopkeepers and vendors getting set up for the day.  

Everywhere you look along the streets of the Old Town, you will see copper for sale – all sorts of lovely things, from earrings to tea sets.  Try to find a shop where someone is actually working, so you can enjoy watching them create.  Just a block down from our Airbnb was a little shop where the owner was pounding away creating beautiful copper art every time I passed.  When I wandered in to check it out at last I found out that his family have been coppersmiths for generations.  Before we left I ended up buying a few too many things from him, including an incredibly intricate serving tray that is now one of my favorite pieces in my home.  

This adorable little café is the perfect spot to grab a bite and relax for a bit.  They have some seaing out in the courtyard where there’s plenty of room for the little ones to run around.  Or you can snag a table on the terrace for one of the best views in town, overlooking the river and Stari Most.

One day is really all that you NEED to see Mostar, but this area is amazing and worth more time.  If you find yourself with a few extra days, spend them exploring the nearby towns of Stolac and Bagaj, hiking the mountains, or relaxing at Kravice Falls. We only had two days – but, as always, I really wanted more time. The rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina is definitely on my shortlist now too, along with its neighbor Serbia.  Make sure you don’t short-change yourself with only a few hours in this little gem.